Style. Cut. Wash. Colour.
Hair survival in the city with London’s best hairdressers including; Windle & Moodie, Lino Carbosiero, Mathieu Clabaux and Christel Lundqvist.
with Windle & Moodie
‘The most exciting time for me was definitely the 80’s. It was a time when people really started to experiment with their haircuts, their hair colour, and their clothes more than ever had been done before. Anything went, and the more outrageous it was, the better! I loved how even men began to really experiment too. They were bleaching their hair, colouring it, and really embracing wearing make-up. People were not afraid to experiment. In the 80’s I dyed my hair nearly every colour in the colour chart and experimented with every haircut possible.’ ~ Neil Moodie.
Next Season’s Trends
NM: For women there is a big trend towards haircuts again. Now the soft wave in long hair has become super mainstream, we’re looking to give strong haircuts again like the 80’s and early 90’s, but they’re a little softer looking when finished. There’s been huge trend for barbering and beards but long hair is making a comeback for men. It’s the antithesis of the short back and sides, if you’re not that kind of groomed guy.
Paul Windle, Managing Director
There is definitely a movement away from all the glitz and glamour. People now are starting to stay more true to themselves and embrace what they already have.
NM: Once I did a shoot for Italian Vogue with Corinne Day, on a model called Carol Sippel. Carol had shoulder length and we decided to do a short wig on her- kind of Twiggy-esque. Once the wig was on, I decided to take the cut much shorter- old school punk looking. It was bleached blonde with dark roots. When the shoot came out, everybody thought Carol had cut her hair off including fashion photographer Steven Meisel who called Carol’s agent in New York and asked if she’d cut her hair off! Apparently he thought she had, and was annoyed that he hadn’t had it done for a shoot with himself. I love that it caused such a reaction, and that we fooled everybody!
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With Lino Carbosiero, MBE at Daniel Galvin
‘It is really important to trim your hair to keep the ends healthy. I always recommend if you’re growing your hair to cut off half the amount grown during the 6-8 week period, so you get the feeling that it is growing and not getting shorter! My recommendation for gents is normally 3-5 weeks and for ladies 6- 8 this can obviously vary depending on each individual. If you have a fringe or shorter, graduated sides I tend to tell my clients to come in for a quick two minute, dry trim. This just freshens up the haircut and most hairdressers won’t charge for a fringe trim.’
Tools to Prevent Damage
Most people use the wrong sized brush, I recommend using the exact brush your hairdresser would use on your hair. My personal preference is to use a bristle brush and avoid plastic or synthetic ones, they are much kinder and won’t get stuck in your hair. To prevent knotting and breakage a Tangle Teazer or a wide tooth comb should be used at the conditioning stage. Always brush or comb from the ends upwards to the roots using a downwards motion.
In 1989 when I was working with Kylie Minogue, I was in a taxi on my way to do a photoshoot with her, my assistant dropped my session bag, spilling everything onto the taxi floor. Just as the photo shoot was about to start, Kylie asked for a haircut. So I ask my assistant to pass over my scissors and I look up to see her looking really worried…the scissors weren’t there! Without thinking I looked up and took a pair of 20inch carpet scissors off the studio wall. They barely closed and were completely blunt, but they were better than nothing! With a lot of distraction I managed to finish the cut without Kylie noticing. Thankfully, good styling covers a multitude of sins. The next day, after giggling with Kylie and explaining myself, I made it perfect with a new pair of scissors.
Wash & Prep
Mathieu Clabaux, Creative Director, Onira Organics
Particularly in the UK, people wash their hair too often. Ideally, we should aim for twice a week. The hair is a texture, it is a fabric so, after repeated washes and blow-drying, naturally it gets damaged. The water in London is very hard too, which doesn’t help. When I think about creating products for Onira I think about practicality, in the city we often have no time at all and asking women to wash their hair with Evian wouldn’t be sustainable! Instead we recommend using a serum every day, with a high concentration of Tahitian Ginger, our blend helps to purify the hair and it only takes twenty seconds out of your day. Many factors contribute to healthy hair but we shouldn’t forget that the good hair starts from within, with good general health.
Christel Lundqvist, Founder, STIL Salon
Just like the skin, different hair structures have varying needs and therefore require different ingredients but, if your hair is chemically treated with a lot of colour, keratin is a fantastic protein that will strengthen the core structure of the hair. Sometimes hair looks its best when it’s very natural looking and not too over styled. Finger drying hair is an old method but can be very effective in giving you a natural undone textured look. My favourite natural treatment for dry and frizzy hair is organic coconut oil as it’s packed with vitamin E, healing dry and flaky scalps very quickly .
Paul Windle began his career as a barber in 1980 at Vidal Sassoon, becoming a principal of the Vidal Sassoon School within two years. In 1988, he opened his own salon, Windle, in Covent Garden, which became synonymous with editorial and fashion hairdressing throughout the ’90s, and is regularly featured in the likes of British Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire. In 2010, Paul forged a partnership with Neil Moodie, renaming the salon Windle & Moodie.
Neil Moodie made his But in 1993, he made his transition into editorial session work in 1993, working with legendary photographer, Corinne Day. Shortly after, Neil was on a plane to Italy to shoot an advertising campaign with Miu Miu. Since then, Neil has worked with names such as photographers Paolo Roversi, Mario Testino, Juergen Teller; celebrities such as Drew Barrymore and Scarlett Johannsen; and labels such as Burberry, Calvin Klein, Gucci and Armani.
Lino Carbosiero, MBE is one of Britain’s top hair stylists. Based at the Daniel Galvin salon in London, his talent, skill and eye for detail have been acknowledged by the many famous actors, musicians, models and other celebrities including; Adele, Ronnie Wood, Paul McCartney, Kylie Minogue and Vinnie Jones.
Founded by Jessica LeMarie Pires, Onira Organics an all-natural, organic and sustainably sourced hair care range. Harnessing the benefits of botanical ingredients, their nourishing formulations are packed with powerful antioxidants and radical-fighting agents. Designed by Creative Director Matthieu Clabaux, their bespoke series of In-Salon Treatment Rituals are now available at Dry-By London.
Since arriving in London from her native Sweden in 1999, Christel Lundqvist‘s sense of style, creative flair and technical skill has seen her emerge as one of the industry’s most influential hair colour experts. She has worked with high profile names including Ellie Goulding and Pixie Lott, with her work appearing in Vogue, Elle, Glamour and more. Inspired by her Scandinavian roots STIL Salon, is well-known for its emphasis on colour specialist services.